The ABC's of Campania Food & Wine: P
The ABC's of Campania Food & Wine: P
P is for Patata novella and Piedirosso
P is for Patata novella:
The image of Italy may recall baskets of tomatoes, plates of pasta, fragrant basil bouquets, and platters of hard and fresh cheeses. It is perhaps surprising, then, to learn that the humble potato is one of Italy's most widely cultivated vegetables, second in national production only to the tomato. It is in fertile Campania, together with Emilia-Romagna, that the highest quality and quantity of potatoes are produced. They are grown principally in Naples, Caserta, and, to a smaller extent, in Salerno. The most popular variety is the Patata novella, or "New potato," of the Solanum tuberosum species. This name derives from the homonymous Spanish word for potato, which together with the American name derives its nomenclature its origin in the Peruvian Andes. There, "potato" is nahuatl patatl. For a brief period in 16th century Italy, patata was called tartifola in reference to its similar visual characteristics as the truffle mushroom, tartufo. Patata, however, is the name that held fast in both Spain and Italy. The Patata novella is also known as primaticcia because of its early harvest, which takes place from May to June.
An early harvest means that the potato's skin is delicately paper-thin, and can practically be rubbed off with one's fingers. Discarding the skin is undesireable, though, because of the flavor and nutrients it imparts, including vitamins B1, B2, B3, B6 and C; along with fiber and iron. Again, thanks to the volcanic Campania soil, rich in elements like selenium and flouride, does the Patata novella have these desirable characteristics. Patate novelle most commonly grow as light brown to red skinned, with white to yellow innards; but variations include hues from light brown to violet, and white to rich yellow inside. These potatoes are sometimes eaten raw, and in addition to innumerable dishes one can whip up with potatoes, are particularly excellent in salads of boiled zucchini, basil, tomatoes, and the Campania DOP cipollotti nocerini, a type of shallot.
touring information:
Agriturismo Tenuta Montelaura Via Due Principati, 101, Località Pozzelle P.Iva 02034890646 Celzi di Forino, Avellino 83020 Telephone: +39-082-576-2500 +39-082-576-2977 Agriturismo Sentiero dei Sapori Via Tutti i Santi, 25 Parco Corona - Agerola (NA) Telephone: +39-081-879-1900 info@sentierodeisapori.it In March, the Sagra della Patata Novella is held for the appreciation and promotion of Patata novella in Marigliano, Naples. An ad for the event shows that 2011 was the 9th edition, and other information can be found here (Italian).
P is for Piedirosso:
The top grape of red wines in Campania may be the Aglianico, but Piedirosso is not far behind at all in terms of its excellent flavor, production and pedigree. Piedirosso literally means "red feet;" the reddish grape stems resemble the feet of doves, in particular after they have been snacking on the grapes and crushing the ruby juices from the snapped skin. In various local dialects, Piedirosso is also known as Strepparossa, Palombina and Per'e Pallummo.
Piedirosso, like Aglianico, is an excellent blending variety. And, though less common, it also produces excellent, classic wines individually. Piedirosso is sometimes blended just a touch with Campania's famous Taurasi, and matches well with Aglianico and Olivella to produce Lachryma Christi del Vesuvio and Sant'Agata dei Goti. Its lineage is noble like that of Aglianico, and up to five different Piedirosso vines are mentioned as far back as the ancient Roman Empire. And, Piedirosso has also had to struggle through a victorious comeback after the devastating phylloxera that nearly wiped out many important grape varieties. Today, its production is strong. Piedirosso is grown in ten DOC areas of Campania: Taburno, Campo Flegrei, Capri, Amalfi Coast, Falerno del Massico, Ischia, Penisola Sorrentina, Sannio, Sant'Agata dei Goti, and Vesuvio. On its own or blended, Piedirosso imparts a deep red hue, balanced tannins and lively acidity. Its flavor notes often invoke black plums and dark berries, tobacco and espresso, a slight minerality and spices like black pepper and clove. Though still not common as a stand-alone varietal, Ocone Agricola del Monte is one example of a producer that makes a fine wine of 100% Piedirosso.
Sources: Castaldo, Dr. Antonio. The History Box. March 2010. Cipollotto Nocerino DOP. Regione Campania - Assessorato Agricoltura. Hyland, Tom. Guide to Italian Wines: Campania. Wine Lovers Page. Maresca, Tom. Campania - The World's Original Vineyard. Wine News. Patata Novella Campana. In Campania. Piedirosso Wine. Wine-Searcher. Potatoes: Patate Novelle. Nature Service. Prodotti Tradizionali della Campania: Patata Novella. Sapore di Campania. Venuso, Maddalena. La patata: Umile richezza della terra. Terre di Campania.