Sannio Falanghina: An Ancient Grape Rises from the Ashes

Harking from before the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, falanghina is a grape variety indigenous to the Campania, with a long, storied tradition of cultivation in the region. It is believed that falanghina was a component of Falerno, a fine wine imbibed by the ancient Romans. By the 1960s though, the triple threats of phylloxera, wartime damage, and disinterest had nearly doomed the falanghina vine to a quiet extinction. Luckily, a lawyer by the name of Francesco Avallone took a shining to this orphaned grape. Spurred by his passion for ancient history, Avallone worked to cultivate falanghina once more, and is credited with single-handedly returning falanghina back to its rightful place in the canon of Italian wines.

Today, falanghina is one of the most popular white grapes in Campania. For a recent dinner party, I picked up a bottle of 2009 Sannio Falanghina from Mastroberardino, a well-reputed producer from Atripalda, not far from Pompeii and Naples. The Mastroberardino family has been in the wine-making business for over 130 years, committed stakeholders in preserving Italian vinification traditions and culture. In particular, they strive to protect and valorize native grapes, such as Fiano, Greco, and Aglianico, and view themselves as interpreters in the enological world, just one piece of the holistic cultural message embodied by their wines.

This bottle of Sannio Falanghina impressed me with its floral and fruity aromas, with particularly strong notes of pineapple and citrus. The wine was straw yellow in the glass, and when swirled, it showed a good amount of viscosity in the body. In the mouth, the falanghina had a bracing acidity, with additional citrus, acetone, and mineral flavors, reflecting its origins in the volcanic soils of Pompeii. The wine ended with a short, clean finish. Simple and elegant, the cutting acidity of this wine is best suited for pairing with rich, buttery sauces and seafood or poultry courses. Keep falanghina in mind for the next time you serve seared salmon with beurre blanc!

Sources:

"Falanghina." I Nostri Vini. Mastroberardino.

"Falanghina." Vinoe' Web

Mack, Joel. "Feudi Di San Gregorio Falanghina Sannio 2007." Napoli Unplugged

"Sannio Falanghina." Campania Wines