The ABC's of Campania Food & Wine: U
U is for uova 'mpriatorio and uva catalanesca
U is for uova 'mpriatorio:
Uova ‘Mpriatorio (oo-oh-vah m-pree-ah-tor-ee-oh) is a simple Neapolitan dish that features a sizzling red tomato sauce with two or more sunny-side-up eggs cracked into it, served with a hunk of bread to sop up the good juices. It is an expression of the Neapolitan and Campanian way of utilizing the simplest, freshest ingredients to showcase the seasonal variety and create something delicious.
The name says a bit about the dish itself. “Eggs in Purgatory†is the literal translation. Priatorio is Neapolitan dialect for “purgatory,†and may be a twist and combination of the words pregare and Purgatorio, “pray” and “purgatory.” And of course, if one is in purgatory, then prayers are a way of being saved. The question remains - why the colorful name? In Italian cities on the streets, near churches and in back alleys, there are the occasional indented corners and walls where Christ or the Madonna are honored as small religious figures surrounded by votive candles and flowers. Some of the votive candles can be seen in Naples as white souls rising from the red flames of purgatory much like the white eggs floating on the surface of an often spicy hot tomato sauce. Simple recipes can be found online in both Italian and English.
touring information:
As this is such a simple dish, it will likely be found in many traditional restaurants both in Naples and around Campania. Here is one agriturismo that features it: Agriturismo Tenuta Montelaura Via Due Principati 101, Contrada Pozzelle Celzi di Forino (Avellino), 83020 Italy Tel: +39-082-576-2500 +39-082-576-2977
U is for uva catalanesca:
The Catalanesca uva (grape) is a relatively rare cultivar today. It was brought over in the 1400s from Catalogna by Alfonso I d’Aragona, hence the name “Catalanesca.” This grape took to the volcanic soils of Campania and Vesuvius well, like other Campania grapes have done. The wine became regionally popular and was considered one of the more highly esteemed cultivars of the Vesuvius area until about 60 years ago. Even today, one can find Catalanesca cantine (wineries) that date back to the 1600s. There are not very many, however, and those that exist produce wine exclusively in the Vesuvius National Park area in Somma Vesuviana, S. Anastasia, S. Ottavio and other small towns.
The grape itself is golden and oval, not growing in close bunches. It is high in sugar, making subtle wines that reach their peak after at least two years of maturation. Uva Catalanesca has traditionally been a late-harvest grape, harvested in October, November and even December. Because the skin is thick, it protects the grape from toadstool fungus and allows late maturation. This crunchy grape is sweet and juicy and can be enjoyed on its own, in the mixed fruit salad called Macedonia, and in pastries and savory dishes alike. Excess grapes have always been consumed as such. Only recently in 2006, uva Catalanesca was added to the official wine grape list. As example of a wine produced from 100% uva Catalanesca is the Casa Barone Vino Bianco 2007. The color is a deep straw yellow, and the wine’s structure is good, both light and firm. It has floral aromas of acacia blossom, magnolia and broom, with a fresh and persistent taste. It pairs well with fish platters and pastas that feature light sauces or vegetables.
Sources: Catalanesca White wine. Bravo Italy Gourmet. Ravone, Angela. Uova in purgatorio. Città del Monde. Apr 2011. Santilli, Luisa. Ars Alimentaria. April 2010. Uova in purgatorio " ova 'mpriatorio." A Cucina e Mammà . July 2011. Uva Catalanesca. Regione Campania – Assessorato Agricoltura. 2009.