A Skeptic Goes to Venice - Palazzo Abadessa

For as long as I've been an Italophile, it took me a long time to get to Venice. I'd heard differing stories from my friends who had visit and the quote that kept me away was "Venice has become Disneyland." Knowing there were still unseen parts of Italy without crowds and made for tourist streets, why did I want to bother with it?

It was finally time to bite the bullet and visit Venice after the whirlwind days of VinItaly 2010. Being that close and having a couple of days to spare it was time to get the "Really! You haven't been to Venice!?" comments out of my conversations about my stem to stern travels in Italy.

When I was offered a room at Palazzo Abadessa right off the Strada Nuova, I jumped at the chance. Up to this point I was believing all the negativity about Venice. It was April and it was crowded. It felt like there were more Americans on the ferry than on a New York City subway car. Everyone that caught my eye on the Strada Nuova was wearing bright white sneakers and toting a Rick Steves guidebook. (Then I actually saw Rick Steves!)

Blink and you'll miss the turn to get to Palazzo Abadessa, but this simple turn leaves the crowds behind. Those working on their sightseeing checklist would walk right past this narrow alleyway. In classic Italian style there is a simple sign hanging high from the wall on the street signaling the entrance to Abadessa.

Many of the tour books give you the standard facts you need to know, but they all leave out the best part, the owners. This review from i-Escape.com gives the perfect short review:

Live like a Doge in a beautifully restored Baroque palace with a peaceful walled garden and private jetty

Step back into the 18th century. Surrounded by gorgeous antiques, paintings, damask walls and flexible floors, warmly welcomed by owners Maria-Luisa and Giovanni-Battista Rossi and their charming staff, you'll feel like a temporary member of a historic Venetian family.

Tucked away off the Calle Priuli in the bohemian Cannaregio quarter, fronted by a secret walled garden, this was the private mansion of the Priuli family of Doges. The Rossis bought it in 1975 as their home and, after a quarter century of loving restoration - seeking out the perfect period detail, the finest pieces of furniture - opened it as an intimate hotel. Marisa (as she is known) grew up in a Palladian villa "surrounded by beautiful history", then ran several factories in Vicenza, inviting clients to the Abadessa (the 'Mother Superior') for weekend breaks. Now she loves her life as doyenne of an elegant palazzo hotel, welcoming cultured folk from all over the world. Palazzo Abadessa is, no doubt, a high-end hotel. However, if you allow yourself some time to experience the location, it will grow to feel like an intimate B&B with Marisa and the staff taking good care of you. The breakfast buffet is wonderful and the coffee will continue to arrive if you so desire. Prosecco flows freely during the aperitivo hour and is best enjoyed in the garden. If you happen to miss social hour, a bottle of the beautifully labelled Bel Star prosecco is included in the mini-bar offerings.

When I went to the desk to ask about the best transit options to Murano, they called a private water taxi and arranged a tour of one of the last few glass factories that still remain on the island. Abadessa has their own dock at the back door and the taxi delivered me to the back door of the factory. For me, this felt like I was dodging a pack of paparazzi.

I'm looking forward to my next stay at Palazzo Abadessa, not necessarily for hotel, but to have another chat with Marisa.

Palazzo Abadessa Calle Priuli, Cannaregio 4011, 30131 Venice, Italy +39.041.2413784

Coming Soon....  Part II: The food & wine experience: Bisol Prosecco, the Mazzorbo project and Venissa.